Turn on the circuit and make sure the GFCI receptacle works - power OK, TEST turns it off, RESET turns it back on.Connect the hot wire and its matching neutral to the Line side of the GFCI.Use a non-contact tester to determine which hot wire is hot.Disconnect both sets of wires and cap all 4 separately with wire nuts.With a GFCI, you have one set of Hot/Neutral screws for Line and one part for Load, and if you get them confused you will have problems. That thing with 2 sockets is a receptacle.An ordinary receptacle will typically have a pair of Hot screws and a pair of Neutral screws, and it doesn't matter which hot wire goes on which hot screw or which neutral wire goes on which neutral screw (unless you are splitting top/bottom, but we'll ignore that for now). ** In electrical, "outlet" means any point of use, i.e. * A "yoke" means a switch or a (2-socket) receptacle, the literal meaning is the steel frame which attaches with 2 screws to the box. You wouldn't want to do that here, though, it wouldn't make much sense. It protects things plugged into its sockets, and wizards can extend that protection to other outlets**. You may notice the purple area I drew on the GFCI+receptacle combo device. It's illegal to connect 2 wires to 1 screw (unless it's labeled saying that is OK) - if in doubt, convert that to a pigtail also.ĭid I mention we're obsessed with wiring methods? It matters when 15A flows through your work. If the wire is continuous and just stripped there, that's fine. I don't know how you got 2 blacks on 1 switch screw. Never use the "backstab" method, it is not reliable. If your GFCI has "Screw-and-clamp" terminals, that's another option. That extra white wire from the GFCI+outlet to the wirenut is called a pigtail. Europe doesn't like wire nuts, and some brands are awful, but Ideal brand is excellent. You can also use Wagos, Alumiconns, whatever floats your boat. That tying device is a "wire nut", a basic tool of the trade. The only valid source of ground is the supply cable (barring the rare instance of a retrofit ground). Your drawing doesn't show that, and I'm worried you'd have created an island, of the lampside ground and one yoke*, which would not ground either of them. Do that and you get this:Īnd that's what the interior of your junction box would look like if you combed its hair.įirst thing you notice is all the grounds are tied together. We must work out which cable or conduit each conductor is part of, and having done that, it's trivial to label the cables. Since it is AC not DC, and high current to boot, we also have to care a great deal about induction and eddy currents, which means that it is vital that currents must be equal in each cable, and so cable grouping matters bigtime.Īs such, we can't just have blacks and whites dashing off-diagram to points unknown. Whereas in electrical design, wiring methods are very important, as well as destination of cables. That's because electronics is mostly about semiconductor design, with wiring methods handwaved, since they are generally just traces on a PCB anyway. Electronics folks have a tendency to think in terms of schematics rather than wiring diagrams.
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